Circumnavigation complete!

With the weather looking dodgy we made it back to Portsmouth in two 60 mile hops from Ramsgate via Eastbourne.  We had a slight disaster on the trip from Ramsgate to Eastbourne, we slipped our lines at dawn and must have been a bit groggy because we didn't discover until halfway through the journey that the rear hatch was not properly shut.  Normally this is not a problem but the heavy seas as we approached the straights of Dover caused great tidal waves of water to rush down the decks at frequent intervals resulting is a rather damp bed. The first job when we finally arrived through the lock at Eastbourne was to wash and dry our bedding.  Luckily the mattress was new last year and covered in a fantastic waterproof fabric which was a major bonus.

Storm Approaching near Dover

We spent two days at Sovereign Quay marina, a couple of miles from Eastbourne town centre.  A couple of wet and windy days, although the sun did make an appearance on Monday afternoon and we enjoyed a good walk along the promenade before the rain returned.

Wild seas at Eastbourne

Although, sun came out in the afternoon for a short while

The weather forecast was looking not too bad on Tuesday so we decided to push on departing the lock just after 7am to grey sky and gusty winds.  The first couple of hours was hard going as we rounded Beachy Head and past Brighton.

A bit choppy at Beachy Head

It wasn't raining and the forecast for the next few day's wasn't looking any better so the continued all the way to Portsmouth stopping at Gosport Marina, the first stop on our outbound trip six months ago.  Today we had a rest day and visited the Mary Rose Museum at Portsmouth Historic Dockyard, this was an excellent outing as we both remember the raising of the Mary Rose from our school days (1982).

Tomorrow we'll travel the short distance down Portsmouth Harbour to our home marina and begin the task of cleaning Bathia and packing up.

It's been a fantastic six months, we can't believe its almost over.  It'll feel strange not to study the Met Office inshore waters forecast and plan our next port of call...well not for a little while anyway.

I'll update the route and distance table pages and any other thoughts over the weekend once I'm back on home broadband.

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Progress slowed at Ramsgate

Leaving Ipswich on a blustery Saturday morning we sailed the 10 miles down the River Orwell to Harwich and moored at Halfpenny Pier, just inside the edge of the harbour.  During the afternoon strong wind and rain blew in for a few hours making the short exposed pier rather bumpy.

Harwich, Halfpenny Pier

These conditions were forecast followed by a reasonable Sunday and storms into the start of the next week.  The conditions did improve during the evening so we set our alarm clock for 4:30am to catch the best of the tide for crossing the Thames Estuary.  This is a fairly difficult stretch of water with shipping lanes, strong tides and shifting sand banks.  We had set our course to follow a recommended route, through the Medusa Channel, down Black Deep and through Fishermans Gat Channel south of Long Sand an then almost due south to Ramsgate.  I’m glad to say conditions were pretty good, the first 90 minutes or so were a bit scary in pitch dark but once dawn broke shipping was light and visibility to spot the channel markers was good.  We only had to keep clear of two large container ships, the second of which created a massive wake which we ploughed through bows first.  We passed some massive wind farms, a common sight on our East Coast passage; the weather was pretty good and we were tied up in Ramsgate harbour by mid-afternoon in the blazing sunshine.

Wild and windy Ramsgate Harbour

Unfortunately the next day the predicted gales started with high winds and heavy rain which have kept us in port all week.  The weather improved on Tuesday allowing us a pleasant walk along the coast to Broadstairs, still very high winds but it stayed dry, warm and sunny.

Broadstairs Beach

The rain and gale force winds then retuned and Bathia has been staining against her mooring lines and rocking around as the swell surges into the harbour for most of this week.  Today, Friday, the conditions have improved and the weekend weather is set to be a little better hopefully allowing us to get back on the move as we enter out last week of the trip.  Just a couple more stops until we return to our starting point in Portsmouth.

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Lowerstoft, Southwold and River Orwell

Leaving Wells in far calmer conditions we motor sailed into Lowerstoft and moored for a couple of nights at the Royal Norfolk and Suffolk Yacht Club situated within the harbour.

Royal Norfolk and Suffolk Yacht Club

Sunday was a hot day and we took a walk along the promenade followed by a large lunch in a seaside pub.  We awoke on Monday to thick fog, planning to depart at 11am to catch the tide a couple of hours south to Southwold, the fog appeared to be lifting but as we slipped our lines and called harbour control for permission to transit the harbour the fog rolled in again thicker than ever.  It was touch and go as to whether we should turn round and abandon the passage or carry on, with all our electronic navigation aids switched on we pressed on, creeping out through the harbour barely able to see the harbour walls let alone the small fishing boats waiting to come in.  With Katie glued to the radar and Robert peering into the murk and sounding the fog horn we slowly headed south.  The fog stayed much longer than expected but as we neared Southwold visibility improved, which was good news because the entry into Southwold harbour, up the Blyth River is narrow with a defined route to avoid sand banks.

Once safely secured to the visitors timber moorings in the very fast flowing river we could relax. Tuesday was very hot and sunny, we walked from the harbour along the beach a mile or so into Southwold and spent a very pleasant day soaking up the atmosphere of a seaside town described in our guidebook as 'Kensington on Sea', fine Victorian and Edwardian residential buildings and small green squares.

Southwold Sea Front

Fine weather on Southwold Pier

After Southwold we sailed onto Harwich and the large container port of Felixstowe, however just a short distance beyond the port the River Orwell becomes very rural and we stayed a couple of nights at the Royal Harwich Yacht Club at Woolverstone.  Walking down river we visited the pretty village of Pin Mill for lunch.  

Container Ships at Felixstowe

Butt and Oyster Pub in pretty Pin Mill

Needing a laundrette, provisions for ourselves and diesel for Bathia we pushed a little further up river and moored right in Ipswich.  With so much close by we completed our chores and also managed a trip to see Gone Girl, the film follows the book which we both enjoyed.  Tomorrow we'll move onto Harwich in preparation for crossing the Thames Estuary.

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Scarborough, Grimsby and Wells-next-the-Sea

We finally left Whitby last Saturday, the weather was still pretty dull but the fog had lifted so we risked a shortish sail to Scarborough and then on to Grimsby.

Scarborough Harbour

A rest day was spent sampling the delights of Cleethorpes a short train ride from Grimsby.

We've just spent a couple of wonderful days in Wells-next-the-Sea (North Norfolk), the entry into the harbour was pretty terrifying, but worth it.  We came in just before the tide had turned with 25 knots of wind and a big rolling sea behind us.  The Harbour Master asked us to wait for about half an hour before we attempted to enter - it was the longest 30 mins...  Once he gave us the nod we started our approach but lost our nerve after surfing in on a particularly large wave made the route unclear.  The excellent staff at Wells Harbour came out and guided us in.  We were very grateful for their guidance as a local boat had got caught out and grounded just as we were coming in and it could so easily have been us!

Wells Harbour Pilot coming to assist us

We spent today at the Holkham Hall Estate which is well worth a visit with beautiful grounds, interesting shops.  We've now completed over 2,000 nautical miles and are well on our way to completing our circumnavigation.  Tomorrow we continue south to Lowerstoft.

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Fogbound in Whitby

Just before leaving Seaham we took a look at the impressive WW1 sculpture on the cliffs, the piece was on loan but the town and local council have raised the funds the keep it (See BBC news item).

'Tommy', Seaham

Friday we went on to Hartlepool and spent Saturday catching up on laundry and a quick look around the town.  Not too much to see in Hartlepool, very large marina and a good view from the top of the tower above the art gallery.  Sunday was a good sail down the coast to Whitby, access to the river berths is restricted by the town road bridge with opens two hours either side of high water (18:37 on Sunday).  We were a little early so anchored in pretty Runswick Bay for a cup of tea (Runswick Bay).

Whitby Road Bridge Open

Above is the best view we've had of Whitby, we awoke on Monday to murky, foggy, misty conditions and it's been this way all week.  Our friend Linda arrived for a few days on Monday afternoon. On Tuesday we explored the surrounding areas and visited Robin Hood's Bay and the Whitby Abbey ruins.  A fun day and good to be off the water for a change but the weather was not kind, visibility was poor - mist and drizzle. Today, Friday, it's been a little better and we have high hopes that we'll be moving on tomorrow, the bridge will open around 12:45, and we have a short four hour passage heading for Scarborough.

Some snaps of Hartlepool and Whitby below.

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Blyth, Newcastle and Seaham

On the last blog update we had just arrived into Amble, our first English harbour on the return journey down the East coast.  As if to prove we were properly in Geordie-land, Rob saw Robson Green as we were enjoying a coffee on a hot and sunny Sunday morning.  Katie thought he was making it up but we later heard he was filming in the harbour!

Later that day we caught the tide south and travelled onto Blyth and moored at the Royal Northumberland Yacht Club pontoons in the corner of one of the large docks.  Monday saw us exercise our National Trust tickets again and visit Seaton Delaval Hall, a few miles south of Blyth.

Seaton Deleval Hall, nr Blyth

Tuesday we hopped further down the Northumberland coast and travelled 7 miles up the Tyne to St Perter's Basin, a small marina a short bus ride from central Newcastle.  The tide was running really fierce and the entry into the basin was very narrow, we sat on the waiting pontoon for an hour to wait for the flow to ease and then went for it, an exciting full speed lunge into the basin.  Safely moored we went in search of a recommendation to satisfy a need for good pizza, about a mile and a half north, crossing the Byker estate we found 'Cals Own' and feasted on fine pizza. (link: Cal's Own)

On Wednesday, we toured the city highlights on another great hot and sunny day. In the Baltic museum cafe Rob looked up the Sage events and something caught Katie's attention.  There were a few tickets available and we came back into the city for a gastro pub supper (link: The Broad Chare) and then across the Millennium bridge to see 'Elio Pace plays the Billy Joel Songbook' (link: eliopace.com).  Not Rob's first choice but a great band and 3 hours of entertainment with all the Billy Joel classics and a few facts about his musical life and inspirations.

Thursday was an early start to ride the tide back down the Tyne and we continued 20 miles south and have stopped into Seaham, a small marina basin within a large historic harbour.  The facilities are new and the harbour has seen investment to bring tourism to the town.  We've just had bacon butties in the smart new cafe overlooking the harbour and we're off to have a look around.  Tomorrow we're making a short overnight trip into Hartlepool marina and then onto meet a friend in Whitby.

Some snaps of Newcastle and Seaham below.

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Stonehaven, Arbroath, Eyemouth and back into England

We left Peterhead (Saturday 30th) with full fuel and water tanks, it was cold and wet - much as it had been during our whole stay.  Once outside the harbour the weather improved and we had a pretty good sail down the coast for a couple of hours, then as we were passing offshore from Aberdeen the skies darkened all around, the wind suddenly doubled and it poured with rain.  Rob was on the helm and soaked, Katie managed to keep under cover and stayed dry.  We arrived into Stonehaven late afternoon and were tied up to the harbour wall just as another downpour hit.

Stonehaven Harbour

On Sunday we took a walk along the coast to Dunnottar Castle followed by a pub lunch at the Marine Hotel.  The next day we moved onto Arbroath, about a 6 hour sail, to the home of the 'Arbroath Smokie'.  In Arbroath we visited a museum dedicated to the history and construction of the Bell Rock lighthouse, the museum was actually in the Bell Rock Signal Tower which used to communicate with the lighthouse by raising and lowering a large ball on a pole above the building.  The lighthouse is 11 miles offshore from Arbroath and the world's oldest surviving sea-washed lighthouse; built over 200 years ago and still in use today. (More info at https://www.nlb.org.uk/Lighthouse.aspx?id=539).

Bell Rock Lighthouse Museum

In the afternoon Rob had a 'Smokie' snack as we walked along the cliffs to the north of Arbroath.

We left Arbroath just after 7:15 when the lock gates to the inner harbour opened and sailed onto Eyemouth, a 45 mile passage to our last Scottish harbour before we cross the boarder and continue south.

We left Eyemouth in sunshine but were soon surrounded in fog, we anchored off Holy Island (Lindisfarne) to break the journey across the border to Amble, navigation into the anchorage in fog was a bit tricky - praise be to the GPS chartplotter.  Fortunately we woke to brighter conditions and it's been OK weather today, Rob pulled up the anchor and we set off at about 9am and arrived into Amble marina by 2pm for a late lunch.

Some snaps of Dunnottar Castle and Arbroath below.

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Wick, Whitehills and Peterhead

A good couple of days, clear blue sky (if a bit chilly) and we've made good progress from Wick to Whitehills (50 miles) and onto Peterhead (40 miles).

In Wick we saw the worlds shortest street, just one door, we had Sunday lunch in this restaurant, well cooked roast beef but no green veg.

Ebenezer Place, Wick - World's Shortest Street

We passed some oil (or gas) rigs on the Moray Firth but not much else. Peterhead is a large port with lots of shipping but we were granted entry on arrival and the marina had plenty of space.  Facilities are pretty good here but the town doesn't have much to offer so a quick trip to Morrisons (do Waitrose and Sainsburys not venture this far north?) to stock up as fog has descended and the forecast is not great for for the next couple of days.

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Cape Wrath, starting to head south

After our extended break in Kinlochbervie due to bad weather, we took a chance on an improvement in the strong northerly winds and set off on Thursday just after midday, to reach Cape Wrath at slack tide.

Good sail up the coast towards Cape Wrath

Cape Wrath is the most north westerly point on the UK mainland, famed for treacherous seas and a key milestone on our adventure.  The seas were pretty confused around the cape with a big swell, with little shelter on this stretch of coast it was a long slog to Scrabster Harbour (next to Thurso) and we arrived tired and battered at 11pm.  It was a dark and cold night so it was a relief when the harbour master flashed his headlights to guide us into the harbour basin and help grab our mooring lines.

We took it easy for a couple of days, taking in the delights of Thurso - the most life we had seen for some weeks with a proper high street and dining options.  We had a fantastic meal at the Captains Galley, in Scrabster Harbour - excellent food - one of our best meals of the trip.

Today we rose at 04:00 to make the trip down to Wick though the strong tides of the Pentland Firth between the mainland and the Orkney's.  Due to our lost time from bad weather we decided not to risk a trip to the Orkney's as time is marching on and we need to leave something for next time.

The pictures below show a rock stack just up the coast from Kinlochbervie, rounding Cape Wrath, us on the cliffs with Scabster Harbour behind, Bathia in Scrabster and screaming down the coast just off Wick.

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